Mallorcan "Lenguas" Fabric: A New Trending Topic
It used to be used for upholstering cushions, making curtains, or aprons, but Mallorcan "lenguas" fabric has become a fashion trend and accessory material that extends beyond its domestic use.
Known as "roba de llengües" - "clothing of tongues" in Spanish - this type of fabric is a great example of how a handmade product can reinvent itself while retaining its original artisan essence.
The fabric features the same identical pattern on both sides, with simple and blurred geometric shapes. Its colors are vibrant, although historically, blue hues from natural indigo predominated.
The Ikat Technique for Mallorcan "Lenguas" Fabric
Mallorcan looms have been producing this type of fabric using the ancient Ikat technique, which originates from the East and involves dyeing threads before weaving them. The Silk Road was responsible for bringing this technique to Europe, where it became especially popular in France.
During the French Revolution, many artisans who had adopted Ikat as their primary manufacturing technique chose Mallorca as a refuge and brought with them all the secrets of this fabric.
Since the 18th century, it has been known to be used to upholster furniture or as wall coverings in grand Mallorcan manor houses. The presence of "lenguas" fabric extended into the 19th century in the form of cotton textiles used for curtains, cushions, kitchen cloths, aprons, or lampshades. In 2022, it found a prominent place in interior and accessory design, as well as clothing.
The "lenguas," resembling their fiery namesake in flames, are achieved by dyeing threads following a pattern reminiscent of tie-dye. In fact, artisans tie the threads with waxed cotton to add color to the fabric according to the intended design, but also to prevent the color from invading unwanted areas.
This is a complex technique, as the artist must know precisely where to tie to create the design, which becomes even more intricate when multiple colors are involved or when shapes are more abstract.
The New Golden Era of "Roba de Llengües"
Tradition has given way to modernity, and "lenguas" fabric is no longer limited to adorning the interiors of Mallorcan homes.
New designs and colors are featured in numerous interior design and decoration magazines or projects that seek to revive the Mediterranean flavor of these fabrics, which are now even part of accessories such as handbags, wallets, purses, or backpacks.
The success of "lenguas" fabric is such that brands like Gucci, Marc Jacobs, Dries Van Noten, or Balenciaga have incorporated them into their collections, infiltrating fashion runways, haute couture salons, and workshops of designers and interior designers worldwide.
Numerous looms still produce "lenguas" fabric, and it's possible to visit them to experience this technique firsthand and admire the results. Some of these looms can be found in Pollença, Lloseta, or Santa María del Camí.
Mallorca's weekly markets are another place to discover a wide range of products made with this type of fabric.
